Codebox battery drivers#
Codebox battery full#
Codebox battery code#

Codebox battery drivers#

'Check If the V2 NEW SINGLE DECODER is fitted: It is not possible to lock or unlock the doors with the PLIP or CDLB if the drivers door is open. they all have resolutions to IR key issues or suggestions to look for leaks in the roof (IR receiver lives there) but eventually I found this: She has the Radio Frequency (not IR) key and I think the V2 New Single Decoder. My sister's usually quite well behaved Renoort Megane battery voltage collapsed in the cold weather (she was using hubby's 4x4 for those few weeks of snow) and now the immobilisor is no longer recognising the keys. See - do you knoe about programming keys?

This is the first time it has properly broken down (other than needing a new master cylinder a few years ago) I think it is time to do some overhauling of my bbob and a new battery so I can rely on it again.

Codebox battery code#

The 11.6 was similarly measured at the pins to the code box. School boy error really, seems obvious once you know. That could explained the drop in voltage. That is what led me to beleive the code box was at fault.Īfter the reprogramming I didn't charge the battery again and it had sat there for 5 days without use until I had time to try again. Also the continuity of the line to the ecu and voltages/grounds at the plug to the ecu which all checked out. Thanks its good to be on the road again, I'm getting tired of my push bike in rubbish weather.īefore I had the code box reprogrammed I had fully recharged the battery out of the car and cleaned all the bbob contacts, I had checked the voltages coming directly from the plug to the code box (pins 3 & 8 with ground pin 4) and was getting 12v. I would really appreciate it if anyone has any other suggestion that I can try myself before bitting the bullet and taking it to a garage. I'm leaving the battery disconnected over night and I'll give it another try tommorrow. I haven't got the code to do the emergency start. I'm waiting for a reply from the chap who reprogrammed the code box but I don't know how much help he can be, if he reprogrames it again it is probably just going to get corrupted again. The next day I went to start it and to my horror the code light stayed on and if that wasn't bad enough the wipers started again. I had a look inside the relay which looked fine so I replaced it and it seemed to fix the problem, at last everything worked as it should.

The wipers wouldn't turn off so I pulled the relay and fuse just to stop them when using the car. That was reprogrammed with all three keys and I put everything back together and amazingly it started first time, brilliant, or so I thought. I then sent the code box, ecu and keys (master and two main) off to get checked out, it turns out that all the data in the code box was badly corrupted. I then tried all the tricks suggested in other threads, disconnecting the battery, code box, checked the bbob, voltages at pins for the ecu and code box and the continuity of the line connecting them. I replaced the fuse box and tried again still no luck. I eventually discovered that water had leaked into the back of the fuse box and it had bad corrosion, I assume this is what made the headlights stay on and drained my battery.

Codebox battery full#

I removed the battery and gave it a full charge before trying again, still no luck but I did notice that my head lights would not turn off and my wipers had a mind of their own. The engine turned over but the code light stayed on so it wouldn't start. I have a 146 ti 1996, after all the snow we had, I went to start my car and found the battery was flat, didn't know why at the time. Sorry its a bit long winded but the history of the problem may help with a solution. Can someone please help this is driving me crazy.